Installation guide
How to install our products
Step-by-step guides for DIYers and installers. These are general guides — always follow the instructions supplied with your product and local building rules. Not sure? Call us on +61 430 387 872and we'll talk you through it.
WPC Cladding
Shop WPC Cladding →You'll need
- Drop saw or circular saw (fine-tooth blade)
- Drill / driver
- Spirit level
- Tape measure
- Stainless screws
Tip: Order around 10% extra to allow for cuts and offcuts — or use the panel calculator.
- 1
Prepare the frame
Fix straight, level battens (treated timber or aluminium) over the wall, running across the direction of the boards. Leave an airflow gap behind the cladding so the wall can breathe.
- 2
Fit the starter
Fix a starter strip or the first board perfectly level (or plumb, for vertical cladding). Every board after it follows this line, so take your time here.
- 3
Fix through the hidden edge
Lock each board into the tongue & groove of the one before and screw through the concealed edge into every batten. No fixings show on the face.
- 4
Leave expansion gaps
Composite moves slightly with temperature. Leave a small gap at board ends and where boards meet trims, rather than butting them tight.
- 5
Finish the edges
Cap corners with L-angles or C-corners, and finish openings and board runs with aluminium J capping and H jointers for a clean, factory-made edge.
ASA Cladding (garage doors)
Shop ASA Cladding →You'll need
- Drop saw (fine-tooth blade)
- Drill / driver
- Spirit level
- Construction adhesive
- Stainless screws or rivets
- 1
Check the door first
Cladding adds weight to a garage door. Have a garage door technician check and adjust the spring tension or motor so the door stays balanced.
- 2
Clean and prepare
Clean the door panel or frame so it's free of dust and grease. Mark a level or plumb starting line.
- 3
Cut to length
Boards come in 2.9m lengths. Cut with a fine-tooth blade for a clean edge, and dry-fit a few boards to check spacing before fixing.
- 4
Fix the boards
Fix each board with adhesive and mechanical fixings into the door frame, keeping every board on your line.
- 5
Trim the edges
Finish the edges and corners with matching ASA L-angles and C-corners for a clean, factory-finished look.
Composite Decking
Shop Composite Decking →You'll need
- Drop saw (fine-tooth blade)
- Drill / driver
- String line and level
- Decking clips
- Joist tape (timber joists)
Tip: Hidden fastening kits for timber and metal joists are in Decking Accessories.
- 1
Build a level subframe
Composite boards need a solid, level subframe of timber or steel joists. Most composite decking needs joists at 400mm centres or closer — check the spacing for your board with us before you build. Allow airflow under the deck.
- 2
Protect timber joists
Run joist tape along the top of timber joists. It keeps moisture out of the timber and can double the life of the subframe.
- 3
Fix the first board
Start against the house or your straightest edge. Fix the first board with a starter clip or screws, keeping it dead straight.
- 4
Clip each board
Slide a hidden clip into the groove at every joist and screw it down, then push the next board in. Clips set the gap between boards — 3mm metal or 6mm plastic.
- 5
Leave end gaps
Leave a small gap where board ends meet each other or a wall, to allow for movement with temperature.
- 6
Frame the edges
Finish around the perimeter with edge boards for a clean picture-frame border, and cover exposed board ends.
Indoor WPC Panels
Shop Indoor WPC Panels →You'll need
- Fine-tooth saw or drop saw
- No-nail construction adhesive
- Spirit level
- Brad nailer (optional)
- Tape measure
- 1
Let the panels settle
Leave panels in the room for 24–48 hours before installing so they adjust to the room's temperature.
- 2
Prepare the wall
The wall should be clean, dry and flat. Mark a plumb line for the first panel — don't rely on the corner being straight.
- 3
Glue and place
Run beads of construction adhesive down the back of the panel, press it onto the wall on your line, and pin it with brad nails while the glue sets if needed.
- 4
Work across the wall
Interlock each panel with the last. Cut the final panel to width and use the offcut for the next wall if it fits.
Acoustic Panels
Shop Acoustic Panels →You'll need
- Fine-tooth saw
- Drill / driver
- Screws (black for black felt)
- Stud finder
- Spirit level
- 1
Find your fixing points
Locate studs or install battens. Panels can also go onto ceilings — always fix ceilings mechanically, not just with glue.
- 2
Cut to size
Cut through the slats and felt with a fine-tooth saw. Panels can be split between slats to fit narrow spaces.
- 3
Screw through the felt
Screw through the felt in the gaps between slats into the studs or battens. Use screws that match the felt colour so they disappear.
- 4
Butt the next panel
Line up the next panel so the slat spacing stays even across the join.
PVC Marble Sheets
Shop PVC Marble Sheets →You'll need
- Fine-tooth saw or blade
- Panel adhesive
- Rubber roller or soft cloth
- Matching aluminium trims
- 1
Prepare a flat surface
Sheets go onto flat, clean, dry walls. Any bumps behind the sheet show through a high-gloss finish.
- 2
Cut and dry-fit
Cut sheets to size and dry-fit them first, lining up the veining between sheets.
- 3
Bond and press
Apply panel adhesive, press the sheet into place and smooth from the centre out to remove air.
- 4
Trim the joins
Finish joins, corners and edges with matching black, golden or silver UV marble trims.
Need a hand with your job?
Bring your measurements to the Prestons showroom or send them through for a quote.